1. Consultation. Analyze the hair and get a history of previous chemical processes to determine which strength should be used on the hair. (All Professional Beauticians should make their best assessment before proceeding.) It always helps to ask the client what processes he/she had previously had done.
2. Shampoo using Cuticle Shampoo. Then blow dry 75% to 85% using a brush to detangle the hair for easier application of the solutions.
3. Application of the Relaxer (Solution No. 1) (To be applied at least ¼” away from the scalp)
MAX:Virgin, Stubborn, Resistant hair types. Check to see that the ends are also healthy and start applying the relaxer (solution 1) starting from the nape to the crown last. If the ends are dry or damaged, spray Pure Keratin PPT to equal out the porosity of the hair then proceed with the application. You can wrap or cap the hair for processing.
*Estimated processing time can be from 10-20 min depending on application time. (low heat can be used to speed up the processing time for a maximum of 10 min and the remaining processing time at room temperature.)
Normal:Tinted, Colored, and Dry Hair types. Check the ends to see if they are equal in porosity if not spray Pure Keratin PPT on the chemically touched areas of the hair such as tints, colors, and dry areas of the hair to pre-treat and equal out the porosity. If the ends are more porous, or if there are highlighted sections, apply a thin coat of Reaction B-3 over the highlighted, bleached and ends of the hair. Apply the relaxer (solution No. 1) but not on the highlighted or bleached areas (refer to Mild formula for bleached and highlighted areas). Wrap or cap the hair and process at room temperature. (hint: If the ends are very porous or if there are highlights, apply only on the healthy parts throughout then go back and apply the ends or highlighted parts later. This way you can even out the processing times.)
Mild: Highlighted, Bleached, and Previously Relaxed Hair Types. If all areas of the hair were bleached or permed, spray Pure Keratin PPT to all areas and coat over with a thin layer of Reaction B-3 by massaging it into the hair with your hands.
For sections of highlights, spray Pure Keratin PPT to the necessary areas, then pick out the highlights and apply a thin coat
of the Reaction B-3 then proceed to apply the relaxer (solution No. 1).
*Estimated processing time can be from 0-5min depending on the application time.
4. Applying Strand Tests and Knot Tests
Apply a strand test by pulling 1 or 2 strands of hair from the nape area near the roots and check for elasticity. Once the hair shows elasticity, the bonds have started to breakdown. When the strands do not pull back to original shape and stays stretched it’s been processed. To double check apply a knot test as a final test. Tie a loose knot near the roots and slightly pull to tighten and release. If the knot opens up by itself, a little more processing time is needed, if it stays tight, the bonds are fully broken down and ready to be rinsed.